New Delhi: Ashutosh Gowariker’s jodhaa akbarstarring Aishwarya Rai and Hrithik Roshan, released in 2008 and became a major box office success. While the film was widely praised for its performances, music, and grandeur, the costumes—especially Aishwarya Rai’s portrayal of Jodhaa Bai—left a lasting cultural impact.

Among all the ensembles, her deep red bridal lehenga became one of the most iconic costumes in Indian cinema. The outfit’s influence was so enduring that it was later showcased at the Academy Museum’s “Color in Motion” exhibition in Los Angeles in 2025.

The Challenge Behind the Iconic Look

Renowned costume designer Neeta Lulla recently shared insights into the creative process behind the film’s elaborate wardrobe. She revealed that designing for jodhaa akbar involved producing nearly 2,600 costumes, all carefully aligned with a restricted historical color palette.

A major challenge emerged during filming: the cinematography relied heavily on natural light. While visually appealing, natural lighting exposed even the slightest sheen in fabrics, forcing the team to eliminate all glossy materials.

As a result, every costume had to be completely matte, with no shimmer or reflective texture—an unusual requirement for royal Mughal-era costumes.

Crafting a Royal Yet Matte Aesthetic

To achieve the desired visual authenticity, Lulla and her team used organic cotton and mull as the base fabrics. These were then meticulously hand-embroidered with kasab and resham threads to recreate the richness of brocade without any shine.

Additional embellishments, including gota patti, kundan work, and metal detailing, were carefully treated to maintain a muted, non-reflective finish while preserving regal appeal on screen.

Research and Historical Detailing

The design process reportedly took several months of research into Mughal and Rajput-era textiles, motifs, and craftsmanship. Each element was developed to ensure historical accuracy while also being camera-friendly.

Lulla spent months refining embroidery techniques and fabric treatments, ensuring every costume maintained visual depth without overwhelming the frame.

Legacy of the Lehenga

The final red lehenga has since become a cultural reference point, frequently recreated by brides across India and abroad. The film itself went on to win multiple awards, including National Film Awards and several Filmfare and IIFA honors, and grossed over ₹110 crore worldwide.

Even years later, the costume remains a celebrated example of how cinematic design can transcend the screen and influence real-world fashion.